We hope you enjoy these clips and help it never to happen again.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Liberation day Guernsey Lest we forget
May 9th A day to remember. Here in the Channel Islands we were under the German army from 1940 to 1945 and on May9th the war ship bulldog anchored in the russel and soldiers were landed to take the unconditional surrender from the commanding officer of the German garrison. Not only is it a day to remember for the joy to be free again but also a day to remember the cost of that freedom. So many millions died so that we today can live in freedom, where we can say and pretty much do as we like. I find myself asking this question? When we see how the youth of today behave and the total disrespect they have for the older generation do they ever stop to think that but for them their lives would be totally different. They would be unmercifully punished for their actions, sent to labour camps and some times even tortured or shot. So Liberation day is a day that we should ALL remind the youth of today about and the price paid. It seems so little that a liberation day parade is our way of saying to all those that have sacrificed life and limb for our freedom THANK YOU.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Guernsey
Here is a compilation of some shots of the island of Guernsey in the Bay of St Malo France hope you like them.
We are here for 2 weeks and then off again around the bay of St Malo from Dielette to Morlaix so keep looking and we hope to keep you amused
We are here for 2 weeks and then off again around the bay of St Malo from Dielette to Morlaix so keep looking and we hope to keep you amused
Friday, May 8, 2009
First trip to guernsey 2009
Well we left Morlaix Locks at 06:40 French time and calmly traveld down the river to Chateaux Taureau where we parted company with Mary & Tony aboard Cap Cornwal. They had spent yet another winter in Morlaix and were heading back to their home port Falmouth. The winds were F1 SW so we had to motor all the way 14 hrs later and we arrived in Guernsey to a warm welcome ( Hi Pete and Sal go wherever you like see you in the morning) and that was that. Claude the skipper of Pet a 106 year old pilchard chaser with his girlfriend Sue ( Sal's cousin) met us in the marina and treated us to Fish and Chips, lovely. We will stay here for about 12 days to see friends and Sal's mum. We left Graham on Deep Thought in Morlaix as he decided to stay till friday and then head for Camaret. What a guy. He was getting all the rubbish and things he didn't need anymore off the boat which amounted to papers from 1982 to present, 5 bags. 1 Ironing board and a load of other stuff. Graham is sailing on his own on a westerley33 ketch he is a great guy and likes to think realy hard about all jobs to be done on the boat so they only get done once. He is heading for Gibralter to spend the next winter there so we hope to keep in touch. Right time 07:00BST time for my breakfast so see you all again soon. Thanks for reading and we hope you enjoy.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Work Finnishes
This is always a lovely time for Sal and I as the last job to be done means that we are nearly ready to go sailing for the summer. We have about 7 boats here in Morlaix that we look after for the owners. It gives them peace of mind to know that there is someone on the spot to keep an eye on their investments. This is a Westerley Konsort that had the usual winter crud on and the owner wanted us to get her ready for the season so we Pressure washed, degreased and the polished her. Sally repaired the sprayhood and now we think she looks alot better.
Visitors
You just never know who is going to arrive here in Morlaix. Just the other day we heard an American accent and thought Dutch and Brenda who bought our old Falmouth Pilot had arrived early but no. In came a 30ft sailing yacht from Champaign Illinois USA.
So we have now made friends with the owner Jim a lovely character. He shows all the signs of a man who has been places and knows how to save money. He saw a pair of riggers boots in a shop for a good price and bought them as they were a 1/4 of the price of yachting boots. But the next day we saw Jim with a hacksaw and an angle grinder. I know, you shouldn't ask but I had to. What are you up to Jim. Well Jims says the soles and heels stick out too much and I catch my boots on all the deck fittings so I am cutting off all the surplus and then grinding it back to get a good finnish. Where have all the people that used to think like this gone. Today it is too easy for people to just pass over the bucks and get what the chandlers want us to buy.
Good on you Jim.
Repairs
This year we decided to just make repairs to Feels Good and Paint her next year. The problems is the gel coat has been in the med for a long time and has faded to different colours in different places. So I repaired the star cracks and then degreased the hull and gave her 2 coats of Polytrol varnish. So she looks ok for this year. All we have to do now is go to Guernsey where we dry her out on a pad in the Victoria Marina (£10 per day) pressure wash and antifoul and then we are off again. We are hoping to go to Dielette on the Normandie coast so will get some shots. Then to Jersey Guernsey's sister Island and then to Granville also on the Normandie coast. So watch this space
Mud,Mud,Mud
Well here we are with Morlaix facing yet another year with the problem of Mud. It runs off the fields at the top of the river and gets into the marina and silts it up. So every year they have to pump it out so we can get out to sail. Here is the pump arriving with all the pipe work. The mud is pumped up to a field 2 kilometres away where the Mud and Water are seperated then the water is sent back to the marina and the mud is spread over the fields. One of the problems is bits of trees and bushes that come down the river and get stuck in the mud so as you can see now and then we have to remove them before thay get stuck in the rudder or prop. But its all part of the fun of the boating life and gives spectators a laugh.
Thursday, April 2, 2009
The Season Starts 2009
Well the 2009 season has started. We have washed the topsides with Carolin Ultra Degreasant which removes all the old polish and ALL dirt. After this Sal and I polished the topsides with Starbrite P.T.F.E (Teflon) We find this gives us an all year protection form the elements so less work in the season when we will be enjoying ourselves sailing. Next job was the hull. We moved Feels Good to a side pontoon to do the gel repairs on 4 star cracks we have just below the rail (These were on the hull when we bought her in 2005). The repairs went well but we couldnt match the green so we now have 4 spiders on the hull. We decided to varnish the hull again this year as its cheap and lasts for about 2 years and with the cash situation we have to watch it. So we washed the hull the same way as the topsides and applied a coat of varnish. We find that as the boat is 32 years old she looks OK but there are few patches of colour change in the hull so will Paint her in the next 2 years. Next is the wood work but thats another story so keep looking.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Prepairing a yacht for the open sea
Prepairing a yacht for single handed sailing
On Deck
The important thing to remember is when a yacht is in the harbour it moves very little. When you set out to sea the same yacht moves alot.
Starting on deck. The anchor and its cable should be fastened down so that it can't be thrown around in a sea way. Anchor points for all blocks should be checked and renewed at ANY signs of wear. Sheet Cars anchor points should be checked for any movement and tightened up then cars sprayed with silicone spray. Winches should be stripped and cleaned and new pawl springs fitted, greased and rebuilt. Check ALL cleats for tightness and damage. Spray hood stitching and anchor points should be checked and a new clear panel fitted if the old one is even a bit foggy.
All the standing rigging should be checked for worn or broken parts. Running rigging should be washed and changed if ANY wear is visable.
Sails should be washed dried and given to a sailmaker for servicing. Nonslip deck paint should have no flaking or worn spots reaply a coat if nessesary. Non painte decks should be washed with hot water and a degreasant then rinsed with fresh water. Stitching on Lifelines must be checked and restitched if ANY signs of wear. Stantion bases and guard wires check for wear or movement.
I would recommend that ALL navigation light bulbs be replaced with LED as they are better suited to the marine enviroment and last a long time and burn less volts. Rudder gudgeons and pintles should be checked for wear and replaced if nessesary. Check the tiller for wear or cracks.
Below decks #1
ALL cushions should be held in place by velcro. All locker doors wether sliding or pull open should have locks on them. All floor panels should have locks on them that can be opened in an emergency. Fridge, Cooker, Coolbox, and chart table should have locks. Pan holders on the cooker MUST be able to hold a full pressure cooker in place in case of a 360 roll. Sharp knives are best keept on the back of a locker door in a block of wood aprox 12" x 8" x 3/4" with the shape of the knives cut out to fit. If kept in a draw they can take off a finger in the dark. Loose items should be held in place so they will not move in rough seas especialy things like deviders and pencils and pens. On the loose these things become wepons that can cause serious injuries.
When storing food and drinks it is best to keep them in lower lockers. Tape tins,jars,bottles and packets in pairs they dont roll around.
Batteries should be strapped down with strong nylon straps to a good anchor point. In the cockpit Gas bottle and the spare should be held down with nylon straps and make sure that the rubber hose is in good condition and the drain hole is clear of spiders and rubbish, also check the copper pipe can not be damaged in its run to the cooker. Tye down spare cans and anything else that can move in the cockpit locker. Check the cockpit drain hoses and clips and clear any rubbish from them. Check the standing rigging anchor points.
Below decks #2
The engine should be serviced and any parts replaced. Fit a SPEEDSEAL and new impeller. Refill oil and add MOLYSLIP it will help give you many hours of trouble free motoring and save engine wear.
Fill the diesel tank and add SOLTRAN it is the best on the market to prevent contamination of the fuel and filters.
Wash and treat water tanks and fine filter ALL water you put in them to save getting algae in them. Fit a silver impregnated carbon water filter on the tap you use for drinking and cooking as this will give you bottle quality water.
Stern gear Engine & Electrics #2
The prop shaft should be drawn to check the stern gland, shaft and seals any worn parts should be replaced.Check engine mounts and tighten if nessesary. Check ALL electrical connections and smear with vasalene as its the best. Check the keel bolts and look outside at the joint, if you see any rust weeping from the joing you will need the keel reseated.
Recomended equipment
These recomendations are for a yacht sailing offshore. By this I mean a yacht that will be sailed in the open sea. I have tested the equipment on my own yacht and it all works to help you make safe passages anywhere either single handed or with a crew. Some of the equipment may be outside of your budget but I have marked with a * equipment that you must have.
* 2 speed winches as when you get tired they will help you to keep the rig in tune.
* Strong anchor points to fix your harness to.
* Life lines fore and aft with strong anchor points.
* Servo pendilum steering gear (NEPTUNE) a crew member that does'nt answer back, get tired or eat.
* A Long wooden oar and a crutch on the transom in case of no fuel or engine breakdown.
* Life jacket 150N with harness and crutch strap.
* Knife single hand opening in nylon scabbard with lanyard .
* Pressure cooker ( saves on gas).
* Spare tiller.
* Staylock double fittings for rig repair.
* Spare length of standing rigging wire and cutters for repairs.
* Sea anchor.
* Fortress anchor of the right size with 10 metres of chain and 50 metres of rode.
* Kedge anchor with braided nylon line on roller on the pushpit.
* LED navigation lights ( they burn very little and are not effected by temperature changes or water.
* One piece dry suit with mid layer polar.
* Kevlar gloves ( they protect your hands from accidental cuts.
* Mast climbing gear ( I will explain this at the end).
* Manual bilge pump with a roming flexable hose to reach all parts in the boat.
* First Aid kit (take medical advice for this as it might have to cope with any kind of emergency.
On Deck
The important thing to remember is when a yacht is in the harbour it moves very little. When you set out to sea the same yacht moves alot.
Starting on deck. The anchor and its cable should be fastened down so that it can't be thrown around in a sea way. Anchor points for all blocks should be checked and renewed at ANY signs of wear. Sheet Cars anchor points should be checked for any movement and tightened up then cars sprayed with silicone spray. Winches should be stripped and cleaned and new pawl springs fitted, greased and rebuilt. Check ALL cleats for tightness and damage. Spray hood stitching and anchor points should be checked and a new clear panel fitted if the old one is even a bit foggy.
All the standing rigging should be checked for worn or broken parts. Running rigging should be washed and changed if ANY wear is visable.
Sails should be washed dried and given to a sailmaker for servicing. Nonslip deck paint should have no flaking or worn spots reaply a coat if nessesary. Non painte decks should be washed with hot water and a degreasant then rinsed with fresh water. Stitching on Lifelines must be checked and restitched if ANY signs of wear. Stantion bases and guard wires check for wear or movement.
I would recommend that ALL navigation light bulbs be replaced with LED as they are better suited to the marine enviroment and last a long time and burn less volts. Rudder gudgeons and pintles should be checked for wear and replaced if nessesary. Check the tiller for wear or cracks.
Below decks #1
ALL cushions should be held in place by velcro. All locker doors wether sliding or pull open should have locks on them. All floor panels should have locks on them that can be opened in an emergency. Fridge, Cooker, Coolbox, and chart table should have locks. Pan holders on the cooker MUST be able to hold a full pressure cooker in place in case of a 360 roll. Sharp knives are best keept on the back of a locker door in a block of wood aprox 12" x 8" x 3/4" with the shape of the knives cut out to fit. If kept in a draw they can take off a finger in the dark. Loose items should be held in place so they will not move in rough seas especialy things like deviders and pencils and pens. On the loose these things become wepons that can cause serious injuries.
When storing food and drinks it is best to keep them in lower lockers. Tape tins,jars,bottles and packets in pairs they dont roll around.
Batteries should be strapped down with strong nylon straps to a good anchor point. In the cockpit Gas bottle and the spare should be held down with nylon straps and make sure that the rubber hose is in good condition and the drain hole is clear of spiders and rubbish, also check the copper pipe can not be damaged in its run to the cooker. Tye down spare cans and anything else that can move in the cockpit locker. Check the cockpit drain hoses and clips and clear any rubbish from them. Check the standing rigging anchor points.
Below decks #2
The engine should be serviced and any parts replaced. Fit a SPEEDSEAL and new impeller. Refill oil and add MOLYSLIP it will help give you many hours of trouble free motoring and save engine wear.
Fill the diesel tank and add SOLTRAN it is the best on the market to prevent contamination of the fuel and filters.
Wash and treat water tanks and fine filter ALL water you put in them to save getting algae in them. Fit a silver impregnated carbon water filter on the tap you use for drinking and cooking as this will give you bottle quality water.
Stern gear Engine & Electrics #2
The prop shaft should be drawn to check the stern gland, shaft and seals any worn parts should be replaced.Check engine mounts and tighten if nessesary. Check ALL electrical connections and smear with vasalene as its the best. Check the keel bolts and look outside at the joint, if you see any rust weeping from the joing you will need the keel reseated.
Recomended equipment
These recomendations are for a yacht sailing offshore. By this I mean a yacht that will be sailed in the open sea. I have tested the equipment on my own yacht and it all works to help you make safe passages anywhere either single handed or with a crew. Some of the equipment may be outside of your budget but I have marked with a * equipment that you must have.
* 2 speed winches as when you get tired they will help you to keep the rig in tune.
* Strong anchor points to fix your harness to.
* Life lines fore and aft with strong anchor points.
* Servo pendilum steering gear (NEPTUNE) a crew member that does'nt answer back, get tired or eat.
* A Long wooden oar and a crutch on the transom in case of no fuel or engine breakdown.
* Life jacket 150N with harness and crutch strap.
* Knife single hand opening in nylon scabbard with lanyard .
* Pressure cooker ( saves on gas).
* Spare tiller.
* Staylock double fittings for rig repair.
* Spare length of standing rigging wire and cutters for repairs.
* Sea anchor.
* Fortress anchor of the right size with 10 metres of chain and 50 metres of rode.
* Kedge anchor with braided nylon line on roller on the pushpit.
* LED navigation lights ( they burn very little and are not effected by temperature changes or water.
* One piece dry suit with mid layer polar.
* Kevlar gloves ( they protect your hands from accidental cuts.
* Mast climbing gear ( I will explain this at the end).
* Manual bilge pump with a roming flexable hose to reach all parts in the boat.
* First Aid kit (take medical advice for this as it might have to cope with any kind of emergency.
* Hat ( Sowester is the best, I have used one of these old style hats for 50 years and never had water down the back of my neck.
* Comprehensive tool kit to cope with any problem.
Duegen ( water or air generator I think is the best.
Solar panel 85 watt
General information
The mast climbing gear I use is 2 x tripple blocks 50mm dia one with a becket you will need 7 times the hight of your mast for the rope which should be soft buff finnish on the lower block you have a cleat like the mainsheet. attach the top block to the main halyard and raise it to the top of the mast and secure on a mast cleat. Then attach the bottom pully to your harness or chair and pull yourself up the mast cleating yourself off at any point you want. I can lift myself up our mast in 3 mins with ease and I weigh 75 kilos. I keep all the rope and blocks in a soft nylon bag ready for use at any time.
While I have tried to give good advice here and have used all the equipment you have to make the decisions for your self. Just ask yourself this question DO I WANT TO SAIL SAFELY AND ENJOY MYSELF. If the answer is yes then I hope this advice will help you acheive that goal.
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