On Deck
The important thing to remember is when a yacht is in the harbour it moves very little. When you set out to sea the same yacht moves alot.
Starting on deck. The anchor and its cable should be fastened down so that it can't be thrown around in a sea way. Anchor points for all blocks should be checked and renewed at ANY signs of wear. Sheet Cars anchor points should be checked for any movement and tightened up then cars sprayed with silicone spray. Winches should be stripped and cleaned and new pawl springs fitted, greased and rebuilt. Check ALL cleats for tightness and damage. Spray hood stitching and anchor points should be checked and a new clear panel fitted if the old one is even a bit foggy.
All the standing rigging should be checked for worn or broken parts. Running rigging should be washed and changed if ANY wear is visable.
Sails should be washed dried and given to a sailmaker for servicing. Nonslip deck paint should have no flaking or worn spots reaply a coat if nessesary. Non painte decks should be washed with hot water and a degreasant then rinsed with fresh water. Stitching on Lifelines must be checked and restitched if ANY signs of wear. Stantion bases and guard wires check for wear or movement.
I would recommend that ALL navigation light bulbs be replaced with LED as they are better suited to the marine enviroment and last a long time and burn less volts. Rudder gudgeons and pintles should be checked for wear and replaced if nessesary. Check the tiller for wear or cracks.
Below decks #1
ALL cushions should be held in place by velcro. All locker doors wether sliding or pull open should have locks on them. All floor panels should have locks on them that can be opened in an emergency. Fridge, Cooker, Coolbox, and chart table should have locks. Pan holders on the cooker MUST be able to hold a full pressure cooker in place in case of a 360 roll. Sharp knives are best keept on the back of a locker door in a block of wood aprox 12" x 8" x 3/4" with the shape of the knives cut out to fit. If kept in a draw they can take off a finger in the dark. Loose items should be held in place so they will not move in rough seas especialy things like deviders and pencils and pens. On the loose these things become wepons that can cause serious injuries.
When storing food and drinks it is best to keep them in lower lockers. Tape tins,jars,bottles and packets in pairs they dont roll around.
Batteries should be strapped down with strong nylon straps to a good anchor point. In the cockpit Gas bottle and the spare should be held down with nylon straps and make sure that the rubber hose is in good condition and the drain hole is clear of spiders and rubbish, also check the copper pipe can not be damaged in its run to the cooker. Tye down spare cans and anything else that can move in the cockpit locker. Check the cockpit drain hoses and clips and clear any rubbish from them. Check the standing rigging anchor points.
Below decks #2
The engine should be serviced and any parts replaced. Fit a SPEEDSEAL and new impeller. Refill oil and add MOLYSLIP it will help give you many hours of trouble free motoring and save engine wear.
Fill the diesel tank and add SOLTRAN it is the best on the market to prevent contamination of the fuel and filters.
Wash and treat water tanks and fine filter ALL water you put in them to save getting algae in them. Fit a silver impregnated carbon water filter on the tap you use for drinking and cooking as this will give you bottle quality water.
Stern gear Engine & Electrics #2
The prop shaft should be drawn to check the stern gland, shaft and seals any worn parts should be replaced.Check engine mounts and tighten if nessesary. Check ALL electrical connections and smear with vasalene as its the best. Check the keel bolts and look outside at the joint, if you see any rust weeping from the joing you will need the keel reseated.
Recomended equipment
These recomendations are for a yacht sailing offshore. By this I mean a yacht that will be sailed in the open sea. I have tested the equipment on my own yacht and it all works to help you make safe passages anywhere either single handed or with a crew. Some of the equipment may be outside of your budget but I have marked with a * equipment that you must have.
* 2 speed winches as when you get tired they will help you to keep the rig in tune.
* Strong anchor points to fix your harness to.
* Life lines fore and aft with strong anchor points.
* Servo pendilum steering gear (NEPTUNE) a crew member that does'nt answer back, get tired or eat.
* A Long wooden oar and a crutch on the transom in case of no fuel or engine breakdown.
* Life jacket 150N with harness and crutch strap.
* Knife single hand opening in nylon scabbard with lanyard .
* Pressure cooker ( saves on gas).
* Spare tiller.
* Staylock double fittings for rig repair.
* Spare length of standing rigging wire and cutters for repairs.
* Sea anchor.
* Fortress anchor of the right size with 10 metres of chain and 50 metres of rode.
* Kedge anchor with braided nylon line on roller on the pushpit.
* LED navigation lights ( they burn very little and are not effected by temperature changes or water.
* One piece dry suit with mid layer polar.
* Kevlar gloves ( they protect your hands from accidental cuts.
* Mast climbing gear ( I will explain this at the end).
* Manual bilge pump with a roming flexable hose to reach all parts in the boat.
* First Aid kit (take medical advice for this as it might have to cope with any kind of emergency.
* Hat ( Sowester is the best, I have used one of these old style hats for 50 years and never had water down the back of my neck.
* Comprehensive tool kit to cope with any problem.
Duegen ( water or air generator I think is the best.
Solar panel 85 watt
General information
The mast climbing gear I use is 2 x tripple blocks 50mm dia one with a becket you will need 7 times the hight of your mast for the rope which should be soft buff finnish on the lower block you have a cleat like the mainsheet. attach the top block to the main halyard and raise it to the top of the mast and secure on a mast cleat. Then attach the bottom pully to your harness or chair and pull yourself up the mast cleating yourself off at any point you want. I can lift myself up our mast in 3 mins with ease and I weigh 75 kilos. I keep all the rope and blocks in a soft nylon bag ready for use at any time.
While I have tried to give good advice here and have used all the equipment you have to make the decisions for your self. Just ask yourself this question DO I WANT TO SAIL SAFELY AND ENJOY MYSELF. If the answer is yes then I hope this advice will help you acheive that goal.
